A Svalbard glacier front calving into a calm arctic sea beneath snow mountains
Svalbard

The high Arctic, where the map runs out

78°13'N — the Arctic at the edge of the map

Svalbard sits far above the Arctic Circle, a frozen archipelago closer to the North Pole than to mainland Europe. It is a place of glaciers, open tundra and long summer days that never end — where polar bears genuinely outnumber people.

I lived here for five years, and I still find it extraordinary. Expedition ships thread between fjords and pack ice, dropping ashore for walks across the tundra and cruising quietly beneath towering bird cliffs. The midnight sun keeps the whole day open to possibility.

A Svalbard voyage is wilder and more remote than many expect, yet remarkably accessible from Europe. I will help you choose the route and ship that bring you closest to the Arctic you have in mind.

Seasons

The best time to visit Svalbard

Every part of the season has its own character. Here's how the voyages change through the year.

May – June

Early summer — ice & light

Abundant sea ice for the best polar bear odds, snow-covered peaks and the full midnight sun. Crisp and pristine.

July

High summer — access

Milder weather and receding ice open up more of the archipelago, with tundra beginning to bloom and busy bird cliffs.

August – September

Late season — circumnavigation

The best chance to sail all the way around Spitsbergen, with whales offshore and the first hints of autumn colour.

Guides & resources

Everything you need to feel prepared

Plain-language guidance I share with every traveller. Full versions arrive once we start planning together.

What to pack

Warm layers, sturdy waterproof footwear and wind protection. I provide every traveller with a clear, personal packing list before departure.

Visa & entry requirements

Most voyages begin in Longyearbyen, reached via mainland Norway. I explain the routing, Schengen considerations and connections in plain Czech.

Wildlife you'll see

Polar bears, walrus, arctic foxes, reindeer, whales and vast seabird colonies — a guide to the Arctic residents you may meet.

Good to know

Svalbard questions, answered

You fly to Longyearbyen, the main settlement, usually via Oslo or Tromsø in mainland Norway. Ships embark directly from there, so it is surprisingly straightforward to reach from Europe.

Sightings are common but never guaranteed — these are wild animals in a vast landscape. Early-season voyages with more sea ice offer the strongest chances, and experienced guides know where to look.

Yes. Every shore landing is protected by trained, armed polar bear guards — a role I have held myself — and strict protocols keep both travellers and wildlife safe.

Arctic summer is cool rather than extreme, typically a few degrees above freezing, with the midnight sun providing round-the-clock daylight. Wind and damp are the main considerations, and layering handles both.

It depends on what matters most to you — maximum polar bear odds, a full circumnavigation of Spitsbergen, or a gentler introduction. That's exactly the kind of decision I'll help you make.

Most activities are accessible, with landings graded by effort so you can choose your pace. There are gentle options every day, as well as longer hikes for those who want them.

Thinking about Svalbard? Let's talk it through.

No pressure and no sales pitch — just an honest conversation with a guide who has been there, to help you find the right voyage.